House Washing & Soft Washing in Everett, WA

Algae, mildew and green film lifted off your siding at low pressure — matched to what your walls are actually made of.

The green film that shows up on the north and east walls of almost every house around here is algae, and it is thriving for the same reason moss thrives on the roof: shade, damp, and a mild winter that never really kills anything off. It is most obvious on light-coloured vinyl, but it is on cedar, fiber cement and stucco too — it just hides better.

House washing is where the difference between soft washing and pressure washing stops being a technicality. A pressure washer aimed at siding forces water behind laps and into the wall assembly, and in a climate where that water has no realistic chance of drying out before the next rain, that is how you end up with a problem far more expensive than the algae.

The material decides the method

There is no single correct way to wash a house, because "siding" covers materials with completely different tolerances. Getting this wrong is what produces the horror stories.

Vinyl
Forgiving, but it laps. Water driven upward under a lap has nowhere to go. Low pressure and a downward working direction, always.
Cedar and natural wood
The one that punishes mistakes. Too strong a solution raises the grain and strips colour; too much pressure furs the surface permanently. Weaker mix, gentler dwell, thorough rinse.
Fiber cement (HardiePlank and similar)
Durable face, vulnerable edges and cut ends. The factory finish handles cleaning well; the joints are where water finds its way in.
Stucco and EIFS
Porous and absorbent. Pre-wetting matters more here than anywhere else, or the surface drinks cleaning solution and streaks as it dries.
Brick and masonry
Tolerates more, but the mortar joints do not. Old or soft mortar can be washed straight out of a wall.

How we work the house

Windows and doors get checked and closed. Plants and beds get pre-wetted — a soaked plant absorbs far less of anything that lands on it — and anything delicate gets covered. Exterior fixtures, outlets and light fittings get attention before rather than after.

Then we work the walls top down in sections, applying at low pressure, letting the solution do the work, and rinsing before it dries anywhere. Working in sections is not fussiness: solution that dries on a wall is what leaves the streaks people associate with a bad wash. On a hot bright day the sections get smaller.

Soffits, fascia, and the underside of eaves get the same treatment. They are where the worst of the growth usually is, and they are the part most companies skip because you cannot see them from the street.

What house washing will not fix

Worth being straight about. Washing removes what is growing on the surface. It does not restore faded paint, it does not re-pigment sun-bleached vinyl, and it will not hide chalking — the powdery residue on older painted or vinyl surfaces where the finish itself has broken down. If your siding chalks heavily, cleaning it will make it look better and more uniform, but the underlying finish is at the end of its life.

Oxidised vinyl behaves similarly. A wash takes the biological growth off and evens the appearance considerably; it cannot put the gloss back into a surface that has lost it. We would rather tell you that up front than have you expecting a repaint for the price of a wash.

What drives the price

Square footage of wall, number of storeys, and how much of the house we can reach cleanly. Siding material shifts it, because cedar and stucco need more care and more time than vinyl. Heavy growth on a shaded elevation adds dwell time.

Landscaping close to the walls is a real factor too — mature beds tight against the house take longer to protect properly, and we would rather spend that time than replace your plants.

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Questions we get asked

Is soft washing safe for cedar siding?

Yes, when the mix is matched to the wood. Cedar is the material we adjust for most: a weaker solution, a shorter dwell, and a much more thorough rinse than vinyl needs. Done that way it lifts the algae and mildew without raising the grain or pulling the colour out.

What is genuinely not safe for cedar is pressure. Wood is soft, and pressure damage to it is permanent — it fuzzes the surface fibres and no amount of later care puts them back.

Will it kill my plants?

Not with the preparation done properly. Beds get soaked before we start, which means the foliage and root zone are already saturated and absorb very little of anything that reaches them, and everything gets rinsed again afterwards.

If you have something particularly precious — a specimen plant, a vegetable bed close to the wall — point it out when we arrive and we will cover it outright.

How often does a house around here need washing?

Every one to three years for most Snohomish County homes, driven almost entirely by exposure. A wall that gets afternoon sun can go years. A north elevation under a mature fir will show green again within twelve months.

It is normal for one side of a house to need it long before the others.

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